Caffeine in Skin Care: Does It Actually Work? – Everyday Health

Posted: June 12, 2022 at 1:52 am

Caffeine is not just for mornings anymore.

This simple yet effective ingredient is gaining traction in the beauty world, thanks to its popularity on TikTok and celebrity endorsers who say caffeine-infused skin-care products are a quick, affordable way to give your face a little pick-me-up.

While it may sound too good to be true, those caffeine skin-care devotees may be onto something.

Caffeine is a vasoconstrictor, meaning it makes your blood vessels get smaller and tighten, says Jeffrey Hsu, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and codirector of Oak Dermatology in Chicago.

When used in skin care, caffeine reduces blood flow to the skin and makes it look brighter and tighter, Dr. Hsu says. Its often seen as an anti-aging or wrinkle-smoothing ingredient in face care, eye care, and even body care.

The key to making skin-care products work is proper formulation. In particular, when the right amount of caffeine is used, it can be an effective ingredient to freshen up your skin, eliminate dark under-eye circles, and reduce puffiness in your face.

Several studies, like one published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, show that caffeine molecules are small enough to pass through the top layers of your skin, so it can really dig in and do its job intradermally, explains Hsu.

But its worth noting that just because a product claims it contains caffeine, it doesnt mean it will automatically give you the benefits youre looking for, he says.

In order for caffeine to be effective as mentioned, it must be applied in highly concentrated doses, says Hsu. I always recommend patients to go with medical-grade skin-care products, as they are backed by controlled studies that prove the products' formulations, ingredient transparency, and efficacy.

When evaluating skin-care labels, marketing jargon like clinically proven and pro grade are not necessarily synonymous with medical grade, adds Hsu. Medical-grade products are dispensed at a physicians office or a med spa that has a medical director overseeing their operations.

Caffeine primarily works through circulation, so its fast acting, protective against oxidative stress, and anti-inflammatory for the skin, says Ife Rodney, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Eternal Dermatology and Aesthetics in Fulton, Maryland.

Caffeine may also help protect against photodamage, like fine lines and wrinkles after sun exposure. Studies show caffeine helps when its applied after exposure to UVA and UVB rays, Dr. Rodney says. You will get that immediate lift and oxidative-stress protection, but it can wane over time. Skin-care products should include other active ingredients that can help repair your skin.

Some other ingredients that are great for skin include aloe, tea tree oil, shea butter, vitamin C, and jojoba oil, says Rodney. These all have antioxidants, which slow oxidative stress and may even help restore damaged cells, she explains.

Speaking of sun-soaked skin, a growing body of research in animals suggests that caffeine may have anticarcinogenic properties, says Hsu.

In one study done with mice, for example, caffeine applied topically promoted apoptosis, or cell death, in cells damaged by sunburn, he says, referencing a paper published in December 2021 in the Journal of Biology, Medicine and Biochemistry. Researchers concluded that topical caffeine results in actual cell death of squamous cell carcinoma and benign skin tumors. Squamous cell carcinoma is a type of skin cancer. Of course, large-scale clinical trials are needed to know whether humans would see the same anti-cancer effects.

The main downside is that the skin benefits of caffeine work for only a short period of time, similar to drinking a cup of coffee, says Rodney. Caffeine is a temporary solution and will not cure wrinkles or under-eye bags, she says. You should still invest in other skin-care items that work well with this product and target your specific skin issue long term. Examples include a cleanser with salicylic acid, serums with vitamin C and niacinamide, moisturizers with ceramides, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen, Rodney suggests.

Caffeine can also irritate your skin, causing redness from the increased blood flow. If you have sensitive skin or a caffeine sensitivity, you may want to get started by testing out this ingredient in small doses on a limited part of your skin.

I suggest doing a small patch test, the size of a dime behind the ear or on the jawline, says Hsu. Do it a couple times and see how the skin reacts before using it.

One of the most popular skin-care products is Inkey Caffeine Eye Cream ($9.99, Sephora.com). Actress Gemma Chan and musician Alanna Haim reportedly swear by the staple for reducing puffy eyes in the morning. It contains a popular anti-aging peptide called Matrixyl 3000, which is known to enhance anti-wrinkle performance, though more research is needed to determine how well it can permeate through your skin, one paper suggests.

But thats not the only product youll find caffeine in the ingredient has cropped up in serums, body scrubs, and even cellulite treatments. The following are some of the items dermatologists recommend.

Per Rodney, this product mixes caffeine with plant-based derivatives, which are active ingredients that help soothe skin, speed cell turnover, or provide added hydration. She notes that it also contains squalene, which research suggests helps hydrate the skin.

Biossance Squalane + Caffeine Toning Body Cream, $28, Sephora.com

This medical-grade buy contains Kakadu plum extract, which is chock-full of antioxidants to help combat free radicals, which break down collagen, an effect that contributes to signs of premature aging by causing fine lines and wrinkles, says Hsu. A recent study found that Kakadu plum extract retains high antioxidant activity even after its added to a cream.

InterFuse Treatment Cream EYE, $110, Skinbetter.com

Rodney likes this product because the caffeine is derived from green tea, which contains more antioxidants than caffeine derived from coffee. Antioxidants are great for repairing the delicate skin thats under the eyes, she says. Rodney notes that it also contains hyaluronic acid, to help keep the skin under your eyes plump and well hydrated. Research supports the idea that hyaluronic acid can help rejuvenate skin and stimulate the production of collagen, which keeps skin firm and bouncy.

The Ordinary Caffeine 5% + ECGC Depuffing Eye Serum, $7.50, Sephora.com

In addition to caffeine, this medical-grade product, which Hsu recommends, contains plankton extract to hydrate the skin. One review suggests that marine-based ingredients, like algae, may have a range of skin-supporting benefits, from reducing pigmentation to reducing wrinkles.

ZO Skin Health Cellulite Control cream, $98, ZOSkinHealth.com

Caffeine is growing in popularity as a vital skin-care ingredient, and for good reason. It temporarily constricts blood vessels to reduce puffiness and give your skin a fresh, taut appearance, not unlike your favorite Instagram filter.

While its effects are notable, they are temporary. Your best bet may be to use products that combine caffeine with ingredients that promote skin repair over the long haul, like vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, or marine algae.

Remember, caffeine applied to your skin can still be absorbed into your bloodstream. If youre sensitive to caffeine, be sure to use it with caution and check in with your dermatologist to see if its the right fit for your skin-care needs.

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Caffeine in Skin Care: Does It Actually Work? - Everyday Health

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